Prague to Frankfurt.

This is the second attempt at writing this. The first I wrote on the train from Prague to Regensburg. But even though it said it was saving, it wasnt. So, this is being written on Friday 7am, Frankfurt. Yesterday was travel day, Prague to Frankfurt. So maybe let’s skip a day.

Tuesday morning I as per usual woke early, the sun was peeking out behind early morning clouds and so, that was me walking the streets, camera in hand. Find coffee, find Prague, let’s see what it has. I was already excited just from the taster the night before.

My Airbnb host had given me some options in the leaflet, I decided to do them, but walk. So, I meandered through the side streets, found breakfast, found the historic clock and the square, and crossed the river the first time. I was beaming as I walked. At this early time of before 8am, I had this fairy tale city to myself as a tourist. I just took it like the bakeries…slow.

Bakeries in Europe. Places of connection. Places to prepare for the day. Places of Art. Why wouldn’t you make time to be in one before you started the day. No quick grab and dash, no ‘efficient’ tables, no sense of dour mass produced doom. Places of conversation, places of welcome. I was eating an apple pastry and coffee with a view of the James Dean restaurant, at 7.30am, an explorer on an adventure. Also trying to work out if this place was cheap or expensive. 85CF seemed cheap for coffee, but 85/25 =3.4 Euros, around £3… so yeah… just. But for quality, atmosphere and the fact that it’s in Prague. Leaving with a heart and body full from a pastry and coffee. I walked further around the old town.  

And my God did I feel like I was floating all day.

The Square was spectacular, but it was to come alive later that night, now I had it for myself, and could take some selfies with the camera. I won’t show you them, well ok, you get me being daft, I wonder what the guy behind me was thinking, actually I dont care. But I was very much reminded that it’s easy on a trip like this to just take photos outwards. I take me on the trip, and so, when I have been able to and remember ive taken selfies too. I am navigating this city, these streets, these trains. This is as much about me as it these streets that have stood here for centuries, and will continue to do so.

Im as much struck by the characters around the base of the main statues as the person on the top of them. It’s as if theres something real happening in the faces of them, this one really does want to take him out with her wand/stick. She’s had enough. He wasnt quite the idol he was made out to be.

I cross the river, I see the famous bridge, but on this one im sharing it with trams and cars. And theres a tree on a plinth with a heart on it. Love is everywhere. In this city its writ large. But here it was subtle, it was on the river, it was the tree. Trees were here first, even before the Palace, steps of which im about to walk up.

Talking of Trams. Seriously. I make my own rules, but these just made me smile all day. What is it about old fashioned transport that’s just cute, full of character and appeals to that inner soul. Maybe because it hasn’t got so lost in efficiency and progress. These things still rattle. They make the right noise for a tram. They weren’t built to glide, they were build to be an upgrade from horse and cart. Yes, some are clearly new to look old. Cars make way, as to pedestrians. Who’d have thought you’d get an essay on an integrated travel system in the midst of me gushing about Prague. Prague felt the most pedestrian friendly city yet. Cars would stop if they thought I was going to cross the road, if I was pondering slowing and looking around. Cars werent welcome here, they took second place, if not third or fourth. Cycle lanes must be elsewhere as I cant imagine cycling on roads that full of tram tracks.

I walked the steps up to the Palace. Free to enter the courtyards, cafes and gardens, tickets elsewhere. Good compromise. Walking around the courtyard and just outside one of the palacial buildings a couple were having their wedding photos done, and trying to do so when the place wasn’t very busy. (I went back up at 3pm it was crowded). At 8.30am, I think they got away with it. Sometimes love needs its moments away from the crowds. If I could get a good angle with them in it in this setting, it would make a good photo, I thought to myself. Love is here, but even it has to find a space to make itself private and photographable. I hope I didnt get in their wedding photos.

However. Love, Love no that wasn’t far away today. It was in abundance, of my heart space and soul. I may have walked these streets today, but I felt like I floated on them. This was the day I felt like I was on holiday, this was the day when I just felt like i was at home, home in myself, home in the setting, and so, I meandered, walked around, got lost on purpose, found places, discovered things id never have seen and have conversations with people id never have met had I been trying to hard today. I just lived it for me. 

I found the green ladies at the top of the palace and wondered who they were or what they represented. Green isn’t a Prague colour, so they stood out amongst the terracotta and off white. Are they the feminine , the life, the fresh, the earth mothers, in the midst of the structures, the powers, and the rules?  What of their love, why were they there, what story would they tell, as they looked slightly down the hill to the city of the palace the commerce and the buildings beyond.

As you can tell, it was getting busy, I think by now it was 10am ish, coach parties arrived, crowds were gathering. So I kept on walking forwards, didn’t want to walk back down the steps, I rarely retrace steps, mostly walk in circles. Though I made the exception later as I just wanted to stay out and enjoy the city.  

I take a tram ride on a cute tram. Let’s just say my little boy was in his element here. It rattled, it made a bell sound. Oh my. (and you cant pay per 30mins, so just hop on and off in the time) and then turn the tram tacks green. Could I love this place anymore?

Second breakfast was this. In a café that had these quotes on the wall. Speaking the language of humanity, of love, also highlighting the fragility of society, powers and war. I didn’t deliberately do it, but id ended up walking around the ‘famous’ bridge, in the morning, took good photos of it from both sides, so now after breakfast (2^nd) I walked along the river slowly, peacefully, just so much walking light, feeling like I was falling in love with this city, if I hadn’t already, wanting to embrace it all. 

My first Czech beer, is with a few of fake flowers over the water. Trams in the distance, im beaming. I send some messages to friends asking for their help as im deeply struggling here, and to pray for me. I cant cope, with feeling this full of life, aroused, passioned, embracing this city, its colour, its energy, friendly people, trams.

I touch the dog.

On the famous bridge theres hundred of people, musicians, artists plying their trades, and various plaques that have been rubbed for good luck, I think. One of them is a dog. A golden dog that stands out. I stroke the dog, like it stroked and loved my inner puppy dog the day before. I just done believe it. I feel even more gooey inside. What even is this magic anymore?

Crossing the bridge and I find a canal that looks like Venice, and ice cream served out of doughnut cones. I keep it simple with just vanilla and banana. I used to eat ice cream by the gallon. I haven’t had any for a few years, it could have repercussions. I got an immediate ice cream head. Then I stood by the edge of the bridge. And slowly ate it in the mid afternoon sunshine. My first solero ice cream was had walking the streets of Barcelona when I was 18, my one and first doughnut ice cream, Prague, May 2026. I smile at 18year old teenage me. I am in heaven.

I meet a fellow traveller as im taking photos of the bridge, she and I walk the streets a bit more, as we both have time to kill, she’s partying later, and has travelled many places, we chat, we flirt a bit and just enjoy 2 hours of light fun travel conversation and say goodbye. Chance, unexpected encounter, just a delight.

The evening is a wander through the same streets with the darkness looming. Not before I realise that im taking myself out on a date night in Prague, so I dress up for the occasion, pink shirt indeed, and head out. James Dean Diner is appropriate, I feel confidence and alive – the kind of confident that matches the big boldness of the diner. Veggie burger eaten with gloves. New one on me. Perfect. Maybe suggestive toilets too. Bold, bright, full on. I walk further, even the graffiti has my name on it, this is how I feel. Alive with life. Flowing in and with love.

After my second Czech Beer and im heading back to the apartment, I dont want the night to end, I stand in the square for as long as my cold legs will keep me there. Im wearing shorts, when no one else is. I really dont want to leave Prague though, and walking back to the apartment feels like im starting the journey not just to Frankfurt but also back to the UK. Prague wasnt meant to be the destination of the trip, but, it has certainly felt like it. I should have booked to stay longer. Actually nope. No shoulds. This was magical, a fairytale. Prague, thank you. Please can you advertise a job for a photographer of trams going past buildings, with free accommodation just by the river. I’ll take it in a heart beat. I already have a good portfolio.

Thursday Morning. 14th May.

Another early start as I need to pack up, put the keys back and find coffee and breakfast before I get on a 930am train. All sorted, and obviously all sorted with 40mins to spare. Im that person still, but miss this train and the day would be messy. I get coffee and im comfort eating my Prague break up with a rhubarb pastry, which I didnt realise had jam the shape of a heart. Until I shared the photo on social media, I didnt realise. Love was present even then. Sometimes love isnt noticed at first until afterwards. Sometimes love is bold and full. Love was still there as I ate, then walked up to the station one last time along the same golden street that welcomed me only 36 hours before. Prague I’ll be back. (Please give me that job)

Prague to Frankfurt. A journey through the Bavarian Forest. I try and write this, but it crashed, but I realise that I dont mind. My train is running late and im about to miss my connection, but….because of my tickets being flexible, theres new ways out of the station, so im on a replacement bus to nuremberg. I haven’t eaten anything since rhubarb love shaped pastry, it’s now 4pm. Todays food wasnt the best in terms of quality, its a travel day. But im brave, I try a pretzel.

I dont like them previously, the UK varieties of them. But even the station bought cafe ones tasted so good. Custard filled ‘sausage rolls’ move over Greggs, the germans have won the battle.

Train love today too, travel on the diesel pulled train through the forest was a delight, and I could get these photos out the back window. One at the German border saying goodbye to Prague. The other through the forest. I contemplate the green forest as the train trundles through, and stops at passing places. I contemplate the forest as im also in a conversation about hyper normalisation with a friend on substack. The trees dont lie, unlike the screens, unlike the system that craves our attention for a promised life thats often unsatisfactory and unreal. The trees. They just are. I want to live there. Be there. Then I realise I’ve barely seen green space since, well, home…

I arrive into Frankfurt, not until a lovely German lady chats with me on the train about travel and getting off the train at the right door. Frankfurt station area is just a bit rough, sadly, first impressions not great, not that dissimilar to Hamburg station. One walk through a shop filled street and I know theres some green space. I stay there a while, I touch the trees. ive been on the go for 36 hours, loving it all, but not stopping much. I feel it’s calm. I feel how these trees are doing their best in a city dominated by commercial skyline. But the trees do something here. These are places where people go, to relax, to connect with themselves. People do take photos of the skyline, but they relax in the trees. Frankfurt has a vibe, helped by a food festival thats on. A city square with an amazing fountain.

I find falafel in German bread. mmmmmmm. Ive only had 1 problem finding vegetarian food so far. I also find a seat to enjoy it in a packed vibing, bouncing festival. Its glorious.

I have a wonderful evening, try some German beer, at the hotel. I wander the streets, have more lovely conversations with strangers, and still feel full. This morning ive already been out to walk the streets further. Now for breakfast.

I journaled this the train.

It wasnt about the places
It was what you became
It was about the way you talked to yourself
It was how you said yes and how you said no
It was how you dealt with the changes
It was about how you feel now
Nowhere is anything other than it is
Nowhere is anything other than what you bring to it
Its all how you see it
All how you feel it, taste it...and
Embrace it. 
You choose life, James
Because you can. 

Now…it’s time for hotel breakfast. Frankfurt to Bruges travel day today.

If you’d like to buy me a gift of some food or maybe a Belgian beer for this evening… you can do so here.. thank you